Codfish Bread Stew
The Portuguese word for bread stew ‘açorda’ seems to originate from the Arabic for bread crumbs with coriander, hot water, and garlic. The Arabic etymological roots for the Portuguese ‘açorda’ – ‘tharîd’ – means to ‘make bread crumbs’. Tharîd is considered one of the most characteristic dishes of Arabic cuisine.
The Portuguese ‘açorda’ may refer to different products depending on the region: it may be a soup (the so-called Alentejo soup) or bread stew. In Alentejo, this bread stew is called ‘Migas’.
In regard to the presence of bread stew in traditional recipes, João da Mata's ‘Arte de Cozinhar’ (1876) is noteworthy, where you will find the first version of codfish bread stew similar to this one. Only in 1904 did Carlos Bento da Maia publish ‘Tratado Completo de Cozinha e Copa’, where bread stew appears as a culinary creation with illustrations and separate from bread soups.
This recipe was almost entirely made with endogenous products. The poorer classes consumed bread stew with no codfish or eggs. In the book ‘As Minhas Receitas de Bacalhau’, Vitor Sobral considers this dish to be a result of the Arabic presence in Portugal associating it the most with Alentejo. It is considered a substantial meal, for which reason it is useful in a food crisis.
Heat some water with the soaked codfish and when the codfish is almost done add unpeeled eggs to be poached. In the meantime, crush the garlic, coriander (or pennyroyal), and salt in a bowl.
Add olive oil and when it is ready add the water used for cooking the codfish. Add the crushed bread. Serve with cooked cod and eggs.
"Comeres de Serpa", Câmara Municipal de Serpa e Escola Superior de Educação de Beja
"Receitas e Sabores dos Territórios Rurais" MINHA TERRA - Federação Portuguesa de Associações de Desenvolvimento Local
"A Açorda. Uma sopa de pão, da Alta Idade Média à atualidade", Revista Diálogos Mediterrânicos
Sobral, V. (2012) As Minhas Receitas de Bacalhau. Casa das Letras.
Guedes, F. (2001). As 100 maneiras de cozinhar Bacalhau e outros peixes. Publicações Dom Quixote