We know that codfish was used as ‘medicine for the poor’ throughout Portugal, particularly in rural areas like Alentejo. In 1731, Francisco Henriques – the author of several recipes – already called it ‘food for the poor and rural people’, that is, ‘for the people who worked and exercised a lot’.
Migas has been one of the most traditional dishes in Alentejo for centuries, particularly in the winter. In fact, Migas was not only a high-calorie dish, but it also used hard and stale bread. When added to codfish, the men who bent backwards to earn their wages would certainly gain strength for their struggle the next day. Now the seasoned touch of pennyroyal does not come as a surprise, since this plant – which fights the flu and digestive problems – can be easily found around the whole of Alentejo.
Cook the codfish after soaking it; in the meantime, drain the codfish and remove all skin and bones. Reserve the water used for cooking the codfish. Slice the bread in thin slices and spread pennyroyal leaves on top to taste. Boil the bread in the hot water that was used for cooking the codfish (the bread ought to absorb the water and not be dripping wet, that is, there must not be any water at the bottom of the bowl). Cover the container and let it rest for ten minutes. Then add the shredded codfish and two whole eggs to the bread. Whisk it all until you get a creamy substance. Place crushed cloves of garlic in another pot and let them cook in olive oil until they turn brown. Remove the garlic shortly after and add the creamy substance to the olive oil, turn up the heat and stir it in order to ‘dry’ the mixture without hardening it.
VVAA (2016). As melhores receitas de Bacalhau – Ideias para + de 100 refeições. Impala
Guedes, F. (2001). As 100 maneiras de cozinhar Bacalhau e outros peixes. Publicações Dom Quixote
Sobral, J. M.; Rodrigues, P. (2013) O “fiel amigo”: o bacalhau e a identidade portuguesa. Etnográfica 17 (3), p.619-649.
Henriques, F. F. (1731) Âncora Medicinal para Conservar a Vida com Saúde.